Crab Germination has begun!

Mark Webber • Apr 23, 2018

The real story about crabgrass.

(Photograph Source MkWebber 2015)

According to the growing degree days( http://www.gddtracker.net ) we have just crossed over into 100 days for the required time for crabgrass seed to germinate. Today is April 23rd ,2018 and historically crabgrass germinates in southwestern Ohio around April 15th and I have seen it germinated as early as April 1. Keep in mind there are two primary species of Crabgrass. The first being Digitaria sanguinalis , which is the Large or Hairy Crabgrass. The second being Digitaria ischaemum or commonly known as Small or Smooth Crabgrass.

What Crabgrass looks like

Large crabgrass has 2–6" long, fairly wide, “hairy” leaves. Seed heads are tall spikes with 2–9 “branches” which appear purplish when producing seed from mid-spring through fall. Look for it in disturbed areas of turf and soil. Can grow up to 2 ft. tall. Small/smooth crabgrass is low growing and does not have the fuzzy leaves of large crabgrass. The best way to identify any grass is by studying its nodes, collar, ligule, and sheath

Here is how Crabgrass grows.

Crabgrass seeds are dormant for a short period of time after they shed from plants. Seed germination is related to soil temperature. When the soil temperature at the surface reaches 55°F for four or five consecutive days, crabgrass begins to germinate. Seeds germinate best from early spring to late summer. Crabgrass continues to grow until midsummer when days become shorter. Vegetative growth slows and plants enter their reproductive stage. Purplish seed heads form until frost kills the plants. Plants that emerge early in the season and have a long period of vegetative growth are much larger and more competitive than plants that germinate late in the season. Crabgrass grows well in hot dry conditions, and poor soil, and will out compete turfgrasses that are under heat stress.Large crabgrass grows well in both lawn and field. Small/Smooth is more often found in turfgrass.

Best Management Practices
Maintain proper soil fertility by conducting a soil test every 3–5 years and following the . Fertilize at the proper time for turfgrass root development, primarily fall (late spring at times when turf is weak and thin), irrigate if needed, mow at proper height (removing no more than 1/2 of the blade, amend poor soil, choose proper turfgrass seed for your conditions, buy quality seed, overseed thin spots in fall or early spring, remove thatch. Take steps to maintain shoot density and rooting. Don't rely completely on pre emergent herbicides to control crabgrass.

Treatment Methods
The basic principle of a crabgrass management program is to prevent re-infestation by seeds. Controlling seed production for several years will help reduce the viable seed supply. Crabgrass is not likley be controlled in one growing season because of the great number of viable seeds that accumulate in the soil from years of infestation. A good weed management program in landscapes is one that consists of both focused cultural practices and the use of herbicides as appropriate for the control of any given species. Satisfactory control may require several seasons of conscientious adherence to a good management program. Establishing a dense and healthy stand of turfgrass is the best way to control crabgrass and other annual weeds including grasses and broadleaf weeds. The proper mowing height and frequency, fertilization and irrigation are part of a sound weed control program and should be practiced throughout the growing season. Seed in late summer for new lawns. Crabgrass will die out after fall frost. Mow at 2–3" to “shade” the soil and keep it cool. Water deeply once a week rather than frequent light irrigation during drought conditions. Avoid summer fertilization because crabgrass benefits more than turfgrasses at this time, unless the turf is being used for summer sports, and is irrigated, in which case there should be moderate fertilization provided (minimum 50–75% slow release nitrogen).

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Photo Source (Tree Dictionary) This week I spent some time helping the team at Mark Webber's Landscaping conduct a tree risk assessment of a very large Ash tree. After the Ash inspection, I then inspected a number of other trees on the subject landscape. The property owner had unfortunately had her trees been mistreated by improper pruning. The term “seal,” rather than “heal,” is used to describe tree wound closure, since the wound still exists inside the tree even after it no longer shows on the outside. A properly pruned tree will create a better tree; however, a poorly pruned tree will result in a deteriorated condition. Trees have a natural defense response to wounds and pruning cuts. They form four types of walls to compartmentalize the area thus preventing the spread of decay organisms. However, if you prune too much from a tree, it will not have the energy resources to have the energy to compartmentalize. Proper pruning techniques and timing are critical to long-term tree health. The most important principle to remember is that each cut has the potential to change the tree considerably. Tree pruning needs to be well thought out and based upon what science and the Best Practices of the International Society of Arboriculture. In this case, the client's trees were excessively pruned by removing all of the subject inner branches resulting in a tree branch that looks like a lions tail. Lion's tail pruning creates tree branches that are likely to fail under normal weather conditions. In the case, the recommendation to this client was to do nothing or not to prune the subject trees for at least the next 6-9 years. Pruning Dose As a tree gets older the more difficult, it becomes for the plant to manage excess cuts. (See Chart/photograph above) When trees are young [Y] great amounts of symplast maintaining wood [L] can be removed. Symplastless wood is a term that is lucid to describe a tree or piece of wood or tree part that no longer maintains a symplast. As the tree matures [M] less symplast maintaining wood should be removed, and symplastless wood removal should increase [D]. As the tree approaches over maturity [OM] very little symplast maintaining wood [L] wood should be removed, and great amounts of symplastless wood [D] should be removed. Bottom Line If too many tree branches are removed or if the cuts are too large in older trees will result in further deterioration to the subject tree that may result in the loss of your valuable tree. You should use only Certified Arborist to make decisions about how to best manage your trees. Here are some important tips to follow for better trees: • Start training trees with pruning while they are young and newly established. • Minimize the number of live branches removed at any one time. • Use proper cuts. Watch the branch collar and/or branch bark ridge. • Pruning dose should be determined by overall tree health. • Reduce live-tissue pruning during times of drought. • Remove smaller branches rather than larger branches. • Do not top trees for any reason (heading cuts). • Prune when trees are biologically active to expedite wound sealing. • Do not use tree wound dressings. References http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning/dose/chart.html Tree Pruning Essentials. Lindsey Purcell. Purdue University.2015 McKenzie, R. 2008. What’s Wrong with Topping Trees?, FNR-FAQ-14-W. Purdue University Cooperative Extension, West Lafayette, Ind., USA.
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